My father visits Edinburgh fairly regularly. Every time he does, we end up at Nectar, which is as it should be. He sits at the bar, catches up with the team, and then does the thing that still makes me laugh every single time: he orders a cocktail. This is a man who almost exclusively drinks wine and beer. He is Czech, which means he was raised on some of the finest lager in the world, in a country that takes its brewing with a seriousness that most nations reserve for things

There is a particular kind of pleasure that comes from a wine that misleads you slightly before it delivers. Not in a dishonest way. In the way that a great film does, where the first scene sets an expectation that the second scene quietly and deliberately overturns. The Wide River Shiraz from Robertson, South Africa does exactly that. It announces itself one way on the nose and then arrives quite differently on the palate. That gap, small but meaningful, is the thing that ma