A Modern Approach to Greek Food in Edinburgh
- chrisarazim

- Feb 3
- 8 min read
Updated: Apr 7
Greek food has a reputation problem in the UK, and the problem is familiarity.
Most people have a fixed image of what Greek food is. A gyros from a late-night takeaway. A Greek salad with a block of feta. Hummus from a supermarket shelf. Maybe a taverna meal from a holiday in Rhodes fifteen years ago, where the view was better than the octopus and the house wine arrived in a carafe without a label.
None of those things are wrong. Some of them are genuinely good. But they represent such a narrow slice of one of the oldest and most varied food cultures in Europe that building an understanding of Greek cuisine on them is like understanding Italian food through a chain pizza restaurant.

Anyone who has actually spent time in Greece eating as the Greeks eat knows this immediately. The food is extraordinary. It is varied, seasonal, deeply regional, and built on a relationship with ingredients that has been refined across centuries. What Edinburgh has historically been offered is a pale approximation of a fraction of it.
Nectar exists, in part, to change that.
What the Greek Kitchen Actually Looks Like
The honest version of the Greek kitchen is not the one most people in the UK have encountered.
It is Margarita cooking fasolia on a Sunday because the weather turned cold and a pot of bean soup slow-simmered in olive oil with tomato and herbs is what the day calls for. It is the lathera tradition, an entire category of Greek cooking built around vegetables braised slowly in generous amounts of good olive oil, that treats a pan of green beans or peas as a main course deserving of patience and care rather than a side dish assembled in ten minutes. It is the particular Greek relationship with seafood, bred from centuries of proximity to coastlines where fish came directly from the water to the kitchen without the kind of industrial distance that strips flavour out of the process.
It is also Margarita's mother's pitta recipe, which she learned by watching rather than reading, because some things in the Greek kitchen have never been written down and do not need to be.
The Greek kitchen is a place where freshness is the primary organising principle rather than a marketing claim. Where vegetables and meat occupy equal status on the table rather than existing in a hierarchy where meat is the main event and everything else supports it. Where a meal is not a sequence of individual plates moving through a predetermined order but a spread of dishes arriving as they are ready, shared between everyone, with the evening shaping itself around the food and the company rather than a fixed programme.
We wrote about why this philosophy is central to how Greek food actually works if you want to understand it more fully. The short version is that Greek cooking is simple not because it is easy but because it trusts its ingredients completely.
What Modern Means at Nectar
When we describe our approach to Greek food as modern, we are not describing fusion cuisine or a creative reimagining of the Greek canon. We are not adding truffle to tzatziki or serving spanakopita as a deconstructed element on a rectangular plate.
Modern, at Nectar, means two things.
The first is context. Greek food eaten in Greece is inseparable from its setting. The warmth of the climate, the pace of the meal, the particular quality of summer evenings on a terrace with the sea visible and no reason to be anywhere else. Translating that food to Edinburgh in January requires understanding what the experience of eating it is supposed to feel like and building that into the environment rather than simply reproducing the dishes in a different room. The sharing plate format, the warm lighting, the music that shifts across the evening, the fact that the team genuinely encourages you to order more and stay longer, these are all choices made in service of recreating a feeling rather than just a menu.
The second is Margarita's own evolution as a chef. A kitchen led by someone who trained in Edinburgh's best Mediterranean restaurants, including Fava and Locanda de Gusti, and who has spent years developing a point of view about what Greek food can be when it is given the time and the ingredients it deserves. The dishes at Nectar are not copies of what you would find in a specific Greek region. They are the product of a chef who knows the tradition deeply enough to move within it with confidence.
The Dishes
Chicken Skewers
Souvlaki is one of the most deeply traditional dishes in the Greek kitchen. You find it everywhere in Greece, from the most basic street food to the most considered restaurant menu, because it is one of those dishes that is hard to improve upon when it is done well.
Our version takes the essence of souvlaki and applies the same thinking that runs through the rest of the menu. The chicken is marinated properly rather than quickly. The skewers are grilled to order. The vegetables alongside are treated with the same care as the protein, grilled and seasoned rather than included as an afterthought. It is served with tzatziki dip, because some combinations exist for good reason and do not need to be changed.
The difference between this and a gyros is not a matter of modernity. It is a matter of care. Read more about the dish here.
Grilled Sea Bass
Fish holds a particular place in the Greek kitchen, especially in coastal regions where the relationship between the sea and the table is direct and uncomplicated. A fresh piece of sea bass needs very little intervention to be extraordinary. The work is in the sourcing and the timing, not the complexity of the preparation.
Our sea bass is pan-fried and served with split pea mash, spring onions and grilled red pepper sauce, a combination inspired by the Greek tradition of skordalia, the garlic-rich accompaniment that has accompanied fish in Greek kitchens for generations. The result is refined without being fussy, and comfortable without being heavy. It is a dish that tastes like it knows exactly what it is.

Grilled Halloumi with Forest Fruit Chutney
Halloumi is Cypriot by origin, but it has been part of the broader Greek and Eastern Mediterranean table long enough to feel entirely at home on a Greek-inspired menu. The problem with halloumi in the UK is that it has been so widely adopted and so frequently handled incorrectly that many people have never experienced what it actually tastes like when it is grilled properly.
Properly grilled halloumi has a golden, slightly charred exterior and a giving, yielding interior that is warm throughout without being rubbery. The saltiness is pronounced but not aggressive. Our version is served with a dark forest fruit chutney, and the sweetness and acidity of the chutney do the job that lemon does alongside grilled fish: they balance and lift rather than mask or compete. The dish is described in full here.
Prawn Saganaki
The word saganaki refers to the pan rather than the ingredients, and in Greece it produces different dishes depending on where you are. Our version brings together prawns, slow-cooked tomato sauce, peppers and feta in a combination that is deeply comforting and deeply Greek simultaneously.
As the dish heats, the feta softens into the sauce, losing its sharp crumble and becoming something richer and creamier. The tomato sauce is built with patience rather than speed. The prawns cook precisely enough to remain tender. The result is a bowl that regularly causes guests to order a second round before the first has been cleared.
Order pitta alongside it. The sauce left in the bowl is too good to leave behind, and bread is the only dignified answer to that situation. The full story behind the dish, including the Greek tradition of papara, is here.
Cheese Filo Pastry
Filo pastry appears throughout the Greek kitchen in sweet and savoury forms. Our cheese filo pastry is filled with feta, finished with honey and sesame, and served warm. The contrast between the crisp shattering pastry exterior, the sharp creaminess of the feta inside, and the sweetness of the honey finish is the kind of balance that Greek food achieves at its best. A dish that is simultaneously indulgent and light, rich and fresh.
It arrives at the table and immediately makes everyone reach in. More on the dish here.
The Spinach and Leek Pitta
This is the dish on the menu that most directly connects to the domestic heart of the Greek kitchen. Spanakopita and prasopita, spinach pie and leek pie, are the kind of dishes that exist in every Greek family in a slightly different form because every family carries their own version of the recipe.

Margarita's version is made entirely in-house from a recipe that comes directly from her family. The dough, the filling, the assembly. Everything from scratch, using a rolling stick rather than a standard rolling pin, prepared with the particular unhurried precision of someone who has been making it this way since long before Nectar existed. It is served warm with tzatziki dip.
It is the most personal dish on the menu and the one that most clearly represents what a modern approach to Greek food actually means at Nectar: not reinventing the tradition, but honouring it with complete seriousness.
How to Eat at Nectar
The sharing plate format is not incidental to the Nectar experience. It is the experience.
Greek food was never designed to be eaten as a sequence of individual courses. It was designed to be shared across a table, with dishes arriving as they are ready and the evening finding its own pace rather than following a fixed programme. That is the format we have built the menu around, and it produces a different kind of meal from what most Edinburgh restaurants offer.

Order more than you think you need. Share everything. Let the dishes come as they come. If you want something earlier or in a particular order, just ask. Our full guide to ordering sharing plates answers every practical question before you arrive.
The Drinks
Greek food and the right drinks belong together in a way that most menus in Edinburgh do not reflect.
Our wine list includes indigenous Greek varieties that most Edinburgh restaurants do not carry. The Assyrtiko from Santorini is volcanic, mineral and entirely unlike any Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio you have tried before. It sits naturally alongside seafood and lighter vegetable dishes in a way that feels inevitable rather than engineered.
The cocktail menu is built around Mediterranean identity and advanced technique. The Tzatziki Martini is clarified until it arrives completely clear despite being built on Greek ingredients. The Beach Bonfire is a Negroni variation built around fig and mezcal that tastes like a Mediterranean coastline at dusk. These are not drinks designed to accompany food generically. They are drinks designed to sit alongside this specific food in a way that makes both feel more interesting.

Come and Try It
If your understanding of Greek food is built on what most UK restaurants have offered you, Nectar will change it.
Not through spectacle or novelty, but through the straightforward experience of eating food that has been made with genuine knowledge and genuine care, in a format that reflects how it was always intended to be eaten. Slowly, generously, and in good company.
Nectar is at 73 Broughton Street, Edinburgh EH1 3RJ. Open Tuesday to Thursday from 5pm until 11pm, Friday from 5pm until 1am, Saturday from noon until 1am, and Sunday from noon until 11pm. Monday closed.
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